During my time working in Afghanistan, I made many friends. One of them, Aziz Saim, somehow got hold of my phone number after all these years and insisted that I visit again. His call brought back a flood of memories, and I felt it was time. I applied for a visa and got it within a day. Now, the question was whether to fly or take the road. My heart leaned toward the road – nostalgic and adventurous – while my mind preferred the comfort of flying. Eventually, on July 18th, I decided: road it is.
The last time I visited Afghanistan was back in 2007. After that, life took a different turn. I got busy with a new venture in Pakistan towards the end of that year and never got the chance to return. Before launching Saiyah, my tour operating company in Pakistan, I just couldn’t find the time to visit the beautiful land of Afghanistan again.
I was so excited that I woke up at 3 a.m. Driver Ghulam Murtaza arrived right on time, and we departed from Islamabad at 5:05 a.m. A friend had sent me fresh mangoes from South Pakistan, and I decided to take them along for my friends’ children in Kabul.
We left without breakfast, thinking we’d stop in Peshawar for a local meal. However, we took the Ring Road to bypass Peshawar, hoping to find a good place to eat along the way – but no luck. After crossing Jamrud, we finally found a very basic roadside setup offering tea and kidney curry – there were no other options. We ate quickly and continued toward the Torkham border.
At Torkham, I exchanged some PKR into Afghan afghanis and also had a few US dollars with me. I hired a porter for PKR 1,000 to carry my luggage to the border. After clearing the X-ray scanner, I reached the immigration counter where I waited about 30 minutes for my turn.
The officer asked if it was my first time in Afghanistan. When I said no, he asked for the old visa/passport as proof, which I didn’t have with me. He asked me to go to the verification office. After a 15-minute wait, another officer asked me a few questions, then stamped my hand to indicate verification.
I was now close to the Afghan side when a security person searched me and found the US dollars. He questioned why I was carrying “so much” money. I explained that it was within legal limits, but due to some confusion or lack of information, he took me to a room where a military officer, Captain, was sitting. I calmly explained that the amount I was carrying was within the legal limit. The captain called someone for clarification. The person on the call claimed that the maximum allowed was $1,000 – which I believe isn’t accurate.
I told him, “My exit stamp is already on my passport. Do you want me to return to Islamabad?” He replied, “No, just declare it to customs.” I preferred to send the excess money back with my driver rather than risk confiscation. So I called Murtaza, went back to the parking area with the officer, and handed the extra money over to him. I returned quickly, found my porter still waiting (poor guy), gave him extra for his patience, and finally proceeded toward the Afghan side.
The Afghan side was surprisingly smooth. Within 5–8 minutes, I was through immigration and customs. Outside, Haris was waiting – the same Haris I had known since he was 9. Now, at 31, he’s a father and looked completely grown-up. He welcomed me warmly, and we jumped into a comfortable 4×4. I was drenched in sweat after all the running around on the Pakistani side, so the cool ride was a blessing.
As we drove toward Kabul, Haris asked about my plan. I told him I wanted to visit a few familiar places, especially the hotel where I used to stay, to relive some memories. He offered me an Alokozay energy drink – made in Afghanistan. I normally don’t go for energy drinks, but this one felt special.
Since it was Friday, a public holiday in Afghanistan, most shops were closed. We reached Jalalabad and visited the Spinghar Hotel, which is government-owned. I even visited the same room I used to stay in years ago – it was so refreshing.
As we headed toward Kabul, we stopped at Naghlu for prayers and lunch. Local restaurants were selling fried fish with mint chutney. I sat in front of a locally made water cooler, enjoying the cold breeze. The fish came with traditional Afghan naan, and the lunch was absolutely fantastic.
We continued toward Kabul, crossing the scenic Mahipar Pass, which is always a highlight of the trip. We finally reached Kabul at 5:30 p.m. – and wow, it was completely transformed. New buildings, ongoing road construction – everything looked different but vibrant.
I checked into my hotel, freshened up, and took a night walk through the bazaar. The city had changed so much – it felt surreal. Tired but content, I returned by 10 p.m. and drifted into a peaceful sleep.
The 13-hour journey from Islamabad to Kabul was unforgettable. A beautiful mix of nostalgia, challenge, and joy – simply loved every part of it.
