Introduction

Some trips are planned for months… and some just happen.
My recent journey to Afghanistan was one of those beautiful, unexpected adventures — the kind that remind you why you fell in love with travel in the first place.

I was already exhausted yet satisfied after leading back-to-back motorcycle tours across Pakistan, first with a Brazilian group exploring the mountains from 10 to 24 September, and then with a German group covering the legendary landscapes of Kaghan Valley, Astore, Deosai, Skardu, Khaplu, Hunza, Shimshal, Gilgit, Phandar, Booni, Chitral, Kalash, Swat, and finally back to Islamabad. By the time I dropped them off on 14 October, I told myself, “Bas… now I’ll finally rest.”

But travel has its own magical plans.

One of our clients, Craig Kelly from New Zealand, asked if Saiyah Travel could arrange an extension to Afghanistan starting 21 October. I helped him plan it — but secretly, the travel bug bit me again.
So on 20 October, I booked my own ticket, flew out a day earlier, and surprised Craig right at Kabul Airport. His first words were:

“Do you have magic? You were in Islamabad yesterday!”

Craig Kelly

And that’s how this unexpected Afghan journey began.

Kabul Nights & Afghan Hospitality

After receiving Craig, I took him to one of Kabul’s finest restaurants, Ziyafat, for a warm Afghan welcome. We ordered Malung, Hummus, and Beef Tikka — simple, local flavors that instantly win your heart. Later, I dropped him at Khyber Hotel, while I prepared for our next day’s exploration of the Afghan capital.

A Glimpse of Kabul

Kabul is a city with layers, history, culture, chaos, and charm all mixed together. We started the morning by driving up to Mahipar, enjoying the twisting mountain roads and the panoramic view of Kabul city.
From there, we explored:

• Chicken Street (famous for antiques and crafts)
• Shah Do Shamshera Mosque
• The lively bird market
• And finally, the peaceful Bagh-e-Babur (Babar’s Garden)

The weather in Kabul, Afghanistan was perfect crisp, cool, and ideal for walking through bazaars. Our permits for the rest of the trip were arranged by Afghan Explorer, and by evening, everything was perfectly on track.

Into the Storybook Valley of Bamiyan

We left Kabul at 8:30 AM, taking the scenic route via Maidān Wardak toward Bamiyan, a region famous for the Buddhas of Bamiyan, ancient Silk Road history, and dramatic landscapes.

By lunchtime, we reached Bamiyan and went straight to Shahr-e-Gholghola, also known as the City of Screams. The lighting was perfect, the ruins glowing golden, and the view of the towering niches of the Bamiyan Buddhas in the background felt surreal. Later, we visited the sites of the 55-meter and 38-meter Buddha statues destroyed in 2001. Standing before those massive empty niches, one feels both sadness and awe. This place carries stories… and silence. We checked into Noor Band Guesthouse, where hot showers and fast Wi-Fi felt like a blessing after a long travel day.

Band-e-Amir: Afghanistan’s Blue Paradise

At 9 AM, we drove toward the stunning Band-e-Amir National Park, home to Afghanistan’s famous turquoise lakes. We visited Band-e-Zulfiqar, clicked endless photos, and chatted with locals who kept mistaking Craig for a New Zealand cricket player — naturally, because Afghanistan loves cricket. Lunch was a simple dish of eggs and tomatoes, yet it tasted like an Afghan version of Italian red sauce pasta.

In the evening, we visited the women’s bazaar in Bamiyan where we bought beautiful Afghan kilim rugs to support the local artisans. These authentic Afghanistan kilim rugs are woven with stories, tradition, and incredible craftsmanship.

The Long Road to Mazar-e-Sharif

This was our toughest day. We had two route options to Mazar-e-Sharif, Afghanistan:

A shorter but extremely rough off-road track. The longer main highway via Pol-e-Matak and the Salang Tunnel. We chose the safer main road and still, the journey took 16 hours. By the time we reached Mazar-e-Sharif city, we were too tired for dinner. We just ate fresh fruit and crashed

Exploring Balkh, Rabia Balkhi & The Blue Mosque

In the morning, we visited the ancient city of Balkh, once known as the “Mother of All Cities.” Our first stop was the tomb of Rabia Balkhi, believed to be the first female poet of Persian and Arabic literature.

We also visited:

• Masjid-e-Nau Gumbad (the mosque of Nine Domes)
• Shrine of Ali (Imam Ali Tomb), also known as The Blue Mosque of Afghanistan
• The lively local bazaar of Mazar-e-Sharif

The dazzling blue tiles of the Blue Mosque (or Mazar-i-Sharif) are hypnotic — one of the most iconic sites in Afghanistan Mazar-e-Sharif city. Craig decided he wanted to fly back to Kabul the next morning, but I chose to drive alone to gain more experience for future Saiyah Travel guests.

Back to Kabul (Solo Road Adventure)

I dropped Craig at the airport at 5 AM and continued my 12+ hour journey back to Kabul through the mountains. Traffic near the entrance to Kabul was chaotic, but I made it by evening. We reunited for dinner, sharing stories over Afghan pizza.

Farewell to Afghanistan

Early morning, I dropped Craig at Kabul Airport for his flight to Dubai. My own flight to Islamabad was at 14:50. As I sat on the plane, I realized how unexpectedly beautiful this trip was — a journey filled with history, hospitality, breathtaking landscapes, and warm Afghan smiles.

Sometimes the best adventures are the ones you never planned.

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